Day 6

Straight up the mountain in front of me, a beautifully climbing ridgeline all the way, it was a steep pull up but views were incredible. Headed along the summit ridge to the top before a quick break.

While I was sitting there admiring the view, I noticed a small pile of slate gathered which looked recently disturbed, a closer look revealed a partially chewed film can.

Inside was a first ascent claim from 1998 – two guys from California. I repaired the can and placed it back in its slate cairn.

I stayed high for most of the day, trying to work my way into July Creek proper. Down at the river for about 2pm and started working my way along the river. Sign of bear cubs – small paws – delightful.

Finally made the Kutuk Rover/July Creek junction about 4pm – was fair pooped and in need of a nap.

Having my tea today by the river, well away from my tent I saw a dark shape on the hill down wind and one about half a mile away up wind – had to go and get my glasses to check, the one up wind is a bush – can’t tell about the one down wind – will see if it’s there in the morning.

More wolf tracks today -would dearly love to see another wolf.

Day 7

Good days walking today, I expected the ground leading up to Kutuk Pass and beyond to be full of tussocks, but it was good hard dry ground and really good going.

Once I got out of the creek and into the high ground on river right I found really good caribou trails that took me all the way to the pass, avoiding the hard travelling – fantastic to be able to fairly fly along.

Made it to Kutuk pass by mid-morning – a very cool looking rampart leading into the next valley, you can see this is where the Western Arctic caribou herd migrate some years – no sign of them today, but by the looks of the trail there had been some through fairly recently.

I saw the remains of a carcass with some red meat still left on the bones so caught and killed some time in the last day or two.

Up and over the other side of the wee lochans (no names), they look very tempting for a swim, but the weather is beginning to turn.

Got to the lakes below Kutuk Pass, was just about to sit down for a spot of lunch when I saw a grey wolf loping from the lake up the hill to the north, stopping every now and then to have a look at me. I had a bite to eat and took off my boots and socks to try and let my feet dry and have a few minutes rest – was just putting my socks back on when another big grey wolf came loping past on his way from the lake – he didn’t see me, as I was sat in a jumble of boulders.

Trying to furtively get your phone out of its waterproof case, turn it on and take a video takes a while – by the time I got my phone out to take this video he was almost out of range

Day 8

Rain stopped in the morning, but everything still very wet. Rivers up from all the rain during the night, but still crossable. Low cloud first thing, but soon burnt off – very little wind this morning.

Climbed high in the hill side for the remainder of April Creek to make it easier to cross into Doc Creek and try and avoid the worst of the inevitable tussocks – worked fairly well and got reasonably far into the Doc Creek before the hillside steepened and I was forced down to the river.

Some good fast walking – small stones

Not much sign of game in this creek with no game trails to speak of, you see the odd moose and bear print but nothing like in the main valley. Faint signs of caribou trails.

It took to about midafternoon to get to where the creek turns and narrows, about half an hour further on, I came across a small band of caribou – 4 bulls and 2 cows, one of the bulls had a huge set of antlers.

They didn’t seem to know what to make of me, they were perfectly calm when I was sitting there watching them.

About another hour up the valley I saw another small group – exactly the same ratio, 4 bulls and 2 cows, I thought for a moment that they might have been the same group that sneaked past, but there would have been no way I wouldn’t have noticed.

The entrance to the upper pass is really quite mad to see, stones and huge rocks all lying almost flat like crazy paving with the river running through them, while two large rock outcrops guard the entrance. The pass further on is pretty steep, although faint caribou trails guide the way.

I’ve camped beside the larger of two lochs – very light blue and beautiful – rain battering off the tent, windy and bitterly cold – it has been a very wet afternoon.

Actually cooked my food in the tent – God forbid – as I didn’t really want to sit outside in the wind and rain – more chance of catching hypothermia than being eaten by a bear – but we’ll see tonight I guess.

If I’m brave enough tomorrow I’m going to go for a dip in the lake – as I could do with a good wash, and I’m liable to start meeting people either on the Alatna River or in the Arrigetch Peaks – so better scrub up.

Day 9

Very cold and wet last night, with the heavy rain continuing this morning – my planned swim was off.

Had breakfast in my tent, and set off slightly later than usual up and over the pass. The terrain on the way down was pretty brutal but stunning, even in the wind and rain, good job the caribou know where they are going.

The top part into Ram Creek was pretty good going, the second part – lower down in Ram Creek had  lot more vegetation, but good game trails – the lower part was truly testing, what would normally have taken twenty minutes took well over two hours. Very tough bushwhacking across steep sided hills with lots of alder – resorted to walking down the creek as both sides were so overgrown.

The boulders in the stream were very slippery and came a cropper a few times – struggled to get out of one hole. It opened up slightly for the last push and I was very glad to finally make it to the Alatna – Phase one complete.

After a cup of tea, two snickers and a cereal bar I sorted out the packraft and headed downstream – what a difference in effort, an hour paddling gently downstream and I covered what I normally would in a morning.

The Alatna is good fun and not too taxing, mostly class 2, lots of sweepers, strainers and guessing where the main channel runs.

Finally made camp about 16:30 on a beautiful island. Intermittent rain, but got my clothes mostly dry.

Perfect sandy eddy for a dip in the morning – long awaited.

Four bush planes seen – look like they are ferrying folk from Gaedeke Lake, so I expect to see people tomorrow – 8 days without seeing another soul – pretty good.

Day 10

Up at 6am, stripped off and had a dip in the river to wash – it wasn’t too warm.

Had breakfast, sorted the boat out and off slightly after 8am. A lovely morning paddle down the river, no rapids to speak of really, just have to be careful where other creeks enter the Alatna – it’s interesting to see the colours of some of them.

Made it to the Arrigetch Creek junction just before midday. I knew the trail was on the river right and not too much better than a bear trail, I found it and it wasn’t.

Met the first people I’d seen for a while just setting up camp at the fork before the two main valleys, a lady from Denver and 3 other folks from Tennessee – didn’t stay long.

Seen a few tents pitched up in Aquarius valley, but none where I’m heading.

I can see Ariel pretty clearly from my tent – a bit worried about tomorrow as although I have a description from Roman Dials site, it’s still a bit of an unknown.

Pleased with the distance I’ve covered today, a day ahead from what I planned.

One foot to tape, then it’s bed for me – pooped.