Day 11

Not too much progress today – woke up at 06:00 – rain and totally fogged in, so went back to sleep until 07.30 when the rain had stopped, but still very foggy. Got up for breakfast at 09.30. 10.00 looked like the sun might burn off the low cloud – closed back in at 10:15 and there to stay for the day.

Checked the weather forecast on the inReach, 20% chance of rain at 16:00 – set off for a recce at 16:00, was gone for about 10 minutes before the torrential rain began – no waterproof bottoms on, but I went on anyway as I wanted to scout the route up into the first bowl. I got to the top of the bowl quote easily, but only confirmed by GPS as visibility was down to about 10 feet. Gave up and trudged back to tent – freezing cold and soaking – needed an hour in my sleeping bag to warm up.

Normally I’m not phased by navigating in poor visibility, but I had the feeling that I would need to be able to see more than a few feet in front of me to make it safely over the summit.

Day 12

Awoke this morning to a very heavy, dry frost. Last night’s wet boxer shorts were frozen stiff and a complete joy to put on. Socks were likewise and I tore one of them rather badly putting it on.

Perfect day for it otherwise, great visibility with a straightforward ascent into the first bowl, so much better than yesterday. Once up, I worked my way round to the back and up into the second, higher bowl.

Ascent onto the ridge line was steep but not too bad, on the ridge itself where the rain had fallen lower down yesterday some of the precipitation had fallen as snow higher up, with ice forming on some of the rocks.

I couldn’t find my way off the back of Ariel as described by RD, so I left my pack secured between two boulders and headed on up to the summit. Once I got nearer the top I recognised the scree descent route down, so had to return and get my pack – a treacherous up and down with some sketchy scrambling.

Another 20 minutes, some scrambling with icy hand holds and I made it to the top – what an incredible set of views of the Arrigetch and over the rest of the Gates of the Arctic. I didn’t stay long at the top, the actual summit being about 5 foot square, very airy and I wouldn’t have liked to have fallen off – a chill wind as well.

Made it back to my pack ok and started the steep scree descent – went very, very slowly as the weight of the pack and one misstep could have seen you shooting down the side and over the edge.

Eventually made it down to slightly more level ground – enough excitement for one day and glad to be back using walking poles and not scrambling from hand hold to hand hold.

The walk down to Awlinyak Creek was fairly uneventful – nearly got stuck with lots of bushwhacking, crossed over a tributary river onto higher ground and descended from there.

Lots of chipmunks (I think that’s what they are) in the trees – I’ve seen a couple today – fast wee buggers.

Crossed Awlinyak Creek, knee to waist deep and a strong flow of water – nice camp tonight.

Ambition to climb Ariel achieved.

Day 13

Another cold night – condensation frozen to the inside of the tent – bootlace broke when putting on frozen boot – away by 08:00.

The first hour and half were bushwhacking through dense Alder thickets, I thought the whole creek might have been like that, but cleared to leave a beautiful central moraine clear of vegetation to walk on. Followed it to the head where the creek splits three ways, took the centre route up to the start of Tallus Top pass.

When I first saw the pass, I thought – no way can this be the route over, I checked the map and checked the GPS – it was indeed, the alternative was a very long way round.

Huge boulders heaped up to a knife edge ridge with a slight low point in the middle, the ascent wasn’t too bad, but tough going and very steep with lots of loose large boulders.

Down on the other side was all huge boulders – some the size of trucks and unnervingly a lot of them wobble, lean and tilt when you step on them.

Very slow and lots of concentration on the descent, was just about at the bottom and about to congratulate myself when a small boulder turned on my weight and I went down and wedged between two other boulders – nothing too bad, cuts and bruises – was a little worried about my left leg as there was extensive bruising and heavy swelling on my thigh, but I managed to walk it off ok.

The next pass – Skinny Bou was nowhere as bad on the ascent. You can see where it gets its name, along the whole ridge there is just one narrow opening to pass through with a sheer rock wall guarding the rest.

Found some fresh bear scat at the top, so they must use this route too – would be quite a comical meeting passing a bear clambering up as I was clambering down – I wonder how it would go.

Down on the other side was just boulders, boulders and more boulders – boulder fields and slow going all the way to tonight’s campsite. Managed to find a slightly less rocky spot for the tent – sleeping bag out to dry (quite damp with the condensation) and solar charger on.

A beautiful evening to sit and watch the mountains.

Also, the first time this trip that all of my clothes have been dry, including my boots.

Really tough day today, but one more day should see me at the Noatak river.

Still haven’t decided on whether to push on for the Ambler – Noorvik paddle – running slightly behind as I didn’t give this tougher section more time.

Wouldn’t change anything about this trip so far – an awesome adventure and a superb challenge of fitness and endurance.

Day 14

Fairly mild night, and although it must have been below freezing (there was ice forming on the lake I have camped beside) the tent was free of condensation.

It took about an hour to get to the start of the climb up to the next pass. Mystery Spot pass – so named on account of the stream just before the top of the pass appearing to flow up hill – which it does indeed appear to be – pretty cool indeed.

Although there were two or three boulder fields to get through, it was a much easier pass to traverse than the other two, I’m still absolutely amazed that bear and caribou can make it through some of these passes.

Very glad to be off the rough boulder fields and back down on the river valley – I can’t believe I’ve made it this far.

The Upper Noatak is beautiful and good walking. I kept hearing this shrill bird like sound – it took me a while to find the source of the noise – it was a Marmot, a fat, furry size of a cat, animal and pretty cute at that. I know what to look for now when I heard the noise and saw a few more keeping a watchful eye.

The last 4 or 5 days over the mountains have taken it out of me – my bodies fine, apart from hot spots on my feet, which I’ve taped and my bruised and swollen thigh – but feeling a little fatigued.

Stopped late afternoon, as it’s still another 1 or 2 hours to Lucky Six Creek where I will hopefully start to packraft from.

Another beautiful day here, the colours are incredible and in the late evening sun a sort of blue haze fell over the mountains.

Bizarre tale – but coming down out of the Upper Noatak, across the river was a strange line of boulders including one big white one. I couldn’t work out for ages if it was a line of tents and the big white one was a mess tent – I even stopped to wash my face and brush my teeth just in case. I had to get really quite close to confirm they were actually boulders – although totally out of place, perfectly lined up against the greenery of the background – it got a chuckle.

Day 15

Fairly overcast day, but not that cold – packed up and set off about 08:00 and reached Lucky Six creek just after nine – the river looked too braided to float well so headed downstream for another mile or two.

Set up packraft, had a cup of tea and a snickers and set off about 10:30 – made good headway for about an hour, not having to get out too much to “walk the dog” i.e. wade the packraft through shallow waters. Only took the wrong braid once but it ended up taking about 15 minutes to get back to the main channel.

A stiff headwind came up just after lunch and made for some slow paddling despite the current – constant paddling to move forward.

Saw a couple of what looked like eagles wheeling about in the sky – couldn’t get close enough to get a good look at them.

Scenery travelling down the Noatak is incredible, with Mt Igikpak in the background every time I turn around.

More little flies here than anywhere else – and they bite – first time using bug dope this trip.

I made the decision this afternoon to finish at Ambler rather than try and go on to Noorvik. Although I’m a day and a half ahead of schedule on my “Route Short” I’m about a day slower than planned on “Route Long” (Noorvik).

I could still possibly do it in 12 hour days pushing on hard, but it leaves no contingency (like this headwind).

I’m just planning to push on at my usual pace and enjoy the trip, and hopefully get a rest day or two a few miles upstream of Ambler.

I was just settling down for the night, tucked up in my sleeping bag with the wind continuing to blow outside. I heard a splash and cautiously got up to have a look – expecting a moose, but it was a bear swimming across the river. Quietly as I could, I got my phone out and filmed as it walked along with bank on the other side of the river – having a scratch before ambling back into the bushes, seemingly oblivious to my presence.